Travelling along the narrow, winding north Norfolk coastal road in any direction will eventually happen you across one of the most imposing and impressive village churches you will have ever seen, standing aloof from its parish of Blakeney, it can easily be seen from many miles away, but especially from the meandering coast road.
This admirable church, like so many of its period, would have been lavishly embellished and continuously enlarged upon over the centuries, questionably, as with all Norfolk churches, for the good of god or the fear of man, whatever, it works well to reflect the times of grandeur and the level of commercial prosperity, power and wealth enjoyed by Blakeney, and many other Norfolk coastal villages, as it gradually evolved as an increasingly important strategic and wealthy harbour, sadly until just a few score years ago.
This, it must be understood, was during the heady days of massive and expansive sea trade from the closest of our island's most navigable east coast sea ports capable of handling merchant shipping from Scandinavia, Europe and beyond.
 Photo of an old boat in ruins at Blakeney
Blakeney, like so many strategically well-placed north Norfolk coastal hamlets, can rightfully be proud of its historic importance, secure in the knowledge that it was once a major sea-port for world-wide trade, and thus good for the nation as a whole.
This unique, picturesque stretch of the north Norfolk coastline can boast no dramatic high cliffs - indeed no cliffs at all - no golden sandy beaches, no forever shifting golden sand dunes, and sometimes no sea either! Unless you are prepared to walk at low tide for up to a mile or so.
 The Norfolk Coast Path at Blakeney - a picturesque 3 mile walk that takes you to Cley next the Sea
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Exposed in winter to the severe arctic conditions of the North Sea, Blakeney can at times be one of the cruelest environments in the UK. That said, in the summer, Blakeney is one of the most beautiful villages, not only along Norfolk’s coastline, but anywhere in the region.
Unlike Hunstanton, Cromer or Yarmouth (the Norfolk coast’s largest resorts), the tourist trade in Blakeney is far more leisurely, with the focus mainly on small boats in the harbour, many under sail power, and for sail training, bird watching, seal trips, fishing or just plain enjoyment and recreation. You can also line up along the harbour and catch small crabs on nothing more than a defrosted prawn on a hand held 50p short fishing line (on sale in the shops with fishing nets and Mr Blobby Pink gum boots).
 Photo of Crabbing at Blakeney Quay
They are not suitable for eating, but you can be sure to find, when in season, local-caught edible crab, lobster, oysters, cockles, muscles and whelks, just to mention a few, and while you are enjoying such things mollusk, take a moment to try the local delicacy, samphire [formerly spellrf Sampere, or Sampier, from Saint Pierre or Saint Peter, Samphire is a succulent, growing freely on rocks on the sea-shore moistened by the salt spray, thus dedicated to the fisherman saint], with vinegar or butter it's one of the better things that only exists this fresh on this part of the Norfolk coastline.
The nightlife in Blakeney can also be very good, with meals from the highest standard of hotel, to smaller in-season restaurants, and a wealth of timeless pubs that vary in taste charmingly, catering not only for the relaxed, retired types, but also for those old younger ones amongst us who loike a good old fashioned pint, a game of darts or pool, and perhaps some lively music too. I can vouch for this myself as Blakeney was one of my favourite weekend night-time venues in the summers of my youth. |
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 Photo of Blakeney Quay at sunset
To first reach this subcultural heartland that is Blakeney, you must turn at right angles down a narrow road of the coastal road onto what’s no more than a local loop road wide enough for two sheep, which will take you around the village via a scenic coastal street route, becoming very narrow at times and in places both entering and leaving the village, but it is all the same and well worth the small diversion. There are some impressive Victorian hotels, charming old-world fishing cottages and a very lively harbour, with a convenient car park that now charges during the busy summer months. This said, it is not so expensive, and is a great vantage point not only for the village and harbour, but for a stroll along the coastal paths too, and a great starting point to visit other great Norfolk villages if you care to book one of the many hotels or B&Bs that discreetly blend into Blakeney’s heartland.
The local village hall often has markets stalls selling local hand-made cottage industry products. The village also offers a few well-stocked shops that shy away from tacky plastic goods or frozen sea foods. So only if you desire the freshest of Norfolk coastal fare, and the most authentic local meats, vegetables and game, there are shops that will have everything you seek, as well as shops that have the basics too.
 Photo of meandering inlets and salt marshes at Blakeney
One other thing worthy to note is its very refreshing that this part of the Norfolk coast is at least not blighted at all with unsightly caravan sites, and is one of the last places for sure where you can really become at one with nature, whilst never being to far away from anything you could need.
Blakeney rates very highly as a place to visit for all the family and is just one more gem to be proud of on the Norfolk coast.
Text author and copyright © 2007 : Chris Crane |
